Trigger Rod Polishing with pics - Page 2

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Thread: Trigger Rod Polishing with pics

  1. #11
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    Nice work. Have you had the opportunity to compare it to a nue trigger? I'm wondering if this would be better than getting a neu trigger. Maybe it could compliment a neu trigger.

  2. #12
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    The comments on various forums about the trigger led my to believe I would be upgrading to a neu-trigger, but that was before I bought the FS2000. After actually using the rifle I was quite satisfied with the trigger. I polished it more out of boredom then anything else.

    I would be interested in trying the neu-trigger to see if it further improves the trigger pull, but not interested enough to make the purchase (yet).

    Right now I am working on being competent using the factory irons. The trigger is the least of my problems.

  3. #13
    Senior Member KIRK'S AWAY TEAM (GOLD SHIRT)
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    very nice! I still need to do that but I just havent got around to it.

  4. #14
    Senior Member KIRK'S AWAY TEAM (RED SHIRT) Noncentsical's Avatar
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    Did mine - polished and lubed with synthetic grease. Makes a noticeable improvement IMHO. I'm still going to try the NeuTrigger, just for comparison's sake. Can't resist.
    Paul

    FS2000 Tactical OD, EOTech XPS2-0, Burris AR-Tripler, Barska 3.5-10x40, MBUS, Judochop's handle, Sarge's sling mount, custom vertical foregrip...
    HK USP Compact .45, Ruger LCP .380, Astra A-80 9mm, Beretta U22 Neos .22LR
    Browning BL-22, RWS 34

  5. #15
    Senior Member FROM MY COLD DEAD HANDS CatMostFeared's Avatar
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    So do you guys think it's worth doing?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk it spells what it wants
    www.krisstalk.com for all your KRISS Vector Super V info

  6. #16
    Senior Member KIRK'S AWAY TEAM (RED SHIRT) Noncentsical's Avatar
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    It definitely made a difference on mine that was worth doing. It eliminated the "drag-y, stacking" feel of the trigger. The break itself still isn't as crisp as I'd like, but it's a ton better than it was. The polish job literally took 5 minutes or less on mine - not a lot of polishing. A minute or so on each side with the scotch-brite, a minute on each side with metal polish of your choice (I used Mother's mag wheel polish - it's what I had around) wipe clean and done.

    By far the hardest part is wrangling the disassembly bolt catch and spring during reassembly. That was an evil witch. Literally spent almost an hour trying different methods of holding it in place while sliding the top half of the stock back on, then used a piece of tape and thought I had it, only to discover later that the spring had popped out, and had to disassemble again and fix it. Found that I could hold it in place using a flatblade screwdriver from the top side, through the inspection port, while sliding the top half on and then ensuring the halves didn't separate until I got it bolted back together, else it will "jump" out of position. It's pretty much impossible to tell someone how to do this, you just have to figure it out...

    Even with that, I definitely think it's worth doing.
    P
    Paul

    FS2000 Tactical OD, EOTech XPS2-0, Burris AR-Tripler, Barska 3.5-10x40, MBUS, Judochop's handle, Sarge's sling mount, custom vertical foregrip...
    HK USP Compact .45, Ruger LCP .380, Astra A-80 9mm, Beretta U22 Neos .22LR
    Browning BL-22, RWS 34

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by CatMostFeared View Post
    So do you guys think it's worth doing?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk it spells what it wants
    Yes.
    07/02 SOT Manufacturer, Suppressors, NFA Firearms, and everything else COOL!

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noncentsical View Post
    It definitely made a difference on mine that was worth doing. It eliminated the "drag-y, stacking" feel of the trigger. The break itself still isn't as crisp as I'd like, but it's a ton better than it was. The polish job literally took 5 minutes or less on mine - not a lot of polishing. A minute or so on each side with the scotch-brite, a minute on each side with metal polish of your choice (I used Mother's mag wheel polish - it's what I had around) wipe clean and done.

    By far the hardest part is wrangling the disassembly bolt catch and spring during reassembly. That was an evil witch. Literally spent almost an hour trying different methods of holding it in place while sliding the top half of the stock back on, then used a piece of tape and thought I had it, only to discover later that the spring had popped out, and had to disassemble again and fix it. Found that I could hold it in place using a flatblade screwdriver from the top side, through the inspection port, while sliding the top half on and then ensuring the halves didn't separate until I got it bolted back together, else it will "jump" out of position. It's pretty much impossible to tell someone how to do this, you just have to figure it out...

    Even with that, I definitely think it's worth doing.
    P
    Laying the right side down on a flat surface and installing the spring and lock block catch, and then installing the right side of the stock half will result in a seamless assembly/installation. Approach it as you would in making a sandwich.
    07/02 SOT Manufacturer, Suppressors, NFA Firearms, and everything else COOL!

  9. #19
    Senior Member KIRK'S AWAY TEAM (RED SHIRT) Noncentsical's Avatar
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    Nope. Not in my case. The spring and latch would not "lay" in place without being held in place - they'd go flying off as soon as you let go of it. The latch would "tilt" just enough on the pivot that the spring would be applying sufficient angular force to push it the rest of the way off.

    I was doing it exactly as described - right side laying flat, making a sandwich. But the salami kept flying out.
    Paul

    FS2000 Tactical OD, EOTech XPS2-0, Burris AR-Tripler, Barska 3.5-10x40, MBUS, Judochop's handle, Sarge's sling mount, custom vertical foregrip...
    HK USP Compact .45, Ruger LCP .380, Astra A-80 9mm, Beretta U22 Neos .22LR
    Browning BL-22, RWS 34

  10. #20
    Senior Member FROM MY COLD DEAD HANDS CatMostFeared's Avatar
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    sooo will this work on the PS90
    www.krisstalk.com for all your KRISS Vector Super V info

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