Trigger Question

[possumblaster]

I also removed one of my trigger return springs, and did the drop test with a primed case.

The rifle now shoots like a dream. Before I almost had to use two fingers to fire it, and now it's in the 6-7 pound range. It was so bad that I could only shoot about 30 rounds before my finger was wore out. I would recommend to anyone with an extremely stiff trigger to go for it.

After doing this, the FS2000 is now my favorite rifle to take out to the range.

[kelone]

I did it the old fashioned way:
I removed the left trigger return spring and test fired it.
I also did the primed case test and drop tested it, as well.
Works fine and will fire any commercial ammo.
I have not tried surplus mil=spec ammo in it yet, but will report further testing.
I'm a Jeweler/Watchmaker and for me, it was no big deal to figure it out.

I'd like to do the same, please confirm/comment the images:
the bottom spring needs to be removed:

to do so, these two need to be punched out:

but the black one is held by a retaining pin seen from the bottom:

how do you get that pin out?

Thanks!

[Ron123]

Anyone else? It would be helpful to a lot of us. You can put all sorts of disclaimers before and after the explanation

[ninthinning]

"I just bought the PS90 (sometimes zombies are inside the wire) and the trigger pull is sooooooo much nicer than the FS2K." fltsrgn, that is a surprise, I thought the PS90 had the most horrible trigger I had ever used.

kelone, I have never seen a FS2000 in person but judging by your photos you post here removing the spring that holds the disconnector would be very dangerous. It appears that a sharp blow to the butt of the gun would allow the disconnecter to move rearward and allow the hammer to drop with out pulling the trigger even when the safety switch is in the safe position. I might be wrong but I do not see any safety feature to prevent this once the spring is removed.

Also the pin you cannot remove should not be removed, it holds the primary sear.
9th

[ninthinning]

It looks like it would be possible to make a dedicated semi-automatic trigger with a light crisp 4.2 pounds pull weight with the parts that are there, more or less.

"Before I almost had to use two fingers to fire it, and now it's in the 6-7 pound range. It was so bad that I could only shoot about 30 rounds before my finger was wore out. I would recommend to anyone with an extremely stiff trigger to go for it." Possumblaster, there are several better ways to lighten up the trigger pull. The spring you removed is the safety spring that reduces the potential that the gun will fire when dropped on its butt. I would recommend you reinstall this disconnector spring before you go shooting.
9th

[Yakko]

Ninthinning is correct. I pulled the spring to test and it does indeed drop the hammer with a sharp blow to the butt of the rifle.

I want a better trigger pull, but this isn't the way. My greatest hope is that with the hammer group being so modular that FN will build a new group that we can just drop in... Wishful thinking, I know.

[dchang0]

Rather than remove the spring outright, how about replacing both springs with ones of lighter spring tension?

Maybe we can find an acceptable balance between safety and trigger pull. Anybody have a source for different springs in small, sample quantities?

This is really cheesy of FN to have done. If you think about it, the best possible kind of safety would be some sort of block that actually prevents any kind of drop to release the hammer. They put in springs, but with a sufficiently hard enough slam, even these springs could be overcome.

So, the trigger should have been designed to lift some sort of safety block out of the way, similar to the way that a Glock works. This effectively puts a "right angle" into the way the trigger pack moves, making it impossible for any kind of butt-slam to cause a discharge. All they would have to do is make sure the right-angle is sufficiently deep enough that the mass of the trigger and coathanger and sear couldn't overcome the right-angle lift through momentum.

If FN had done this, they could've gotten the trigger pull down much, much further.

[1811GNR]

If you perform the drop test with a primed case you should find that the bolt comes out of battery, preventing the hammer from falling with enough force to ignite the primer.
(Disclaimer) YMMV, don't try this at home, may not be safe in your circumstances, this is not professional advice.

[ninthinning]

"So, the trigger should have been designed to lift some sort of safety block out of the way, similar to the way that a Glock works. This effectively puts a "right angle" into the way the trigger pack moves, making it impossible for any kind of butt-slam to cause a discharge. All they would have to do is make sure the right-angle is sufficiently deep enough that the mass of the trigger and coathanger and sear couldn't overcome the right-angle lift through momentum.

If FN had done this, they could've gotten the trigger pull down much, much further." dchang0, You are right, you have a great idea here. The front sear might be used as the safety block.
9th

[adjuster]

How about a lighter hammer spring?

Increase the inertia/mass of the hammer with some lead wire in the existing hole across it. (Peen the lead into place, and it's not moving.)

This would reduce the binding force that must be overcome to break the sear.

And cut out one coil on each side from the stock rear sear.

Should still be safe, and it should lower the trigger pull.

Problem is, there are no lower rate hammer springs that I know of for this rifle.