SCAR 17S Canted Barrel ...and my fix...ETA - pics up - Page 3

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Thread: SCAR 17S Canted Barrel ...and my fix...ETA - pics up

  1. #21
    Senior Member CAN KILL GOATS WITH HIS MIND Talhoffer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M@D-M@X
    Quote Originally Posted by GULL
    After the bottom rail is loosened, re torque the barrel screws in the order specified in the manual to 62 in lbs. Then re torque the bottom rail.
    Would that be the owner's manual?
    I can't find anywhere the sequence of barrel screws.
    Thx
    Max
    Will this help you.

    http://fnforum.net/scar-barrel-remov...on-t27832.html
    "Sometimes it is entirely appropriate to kill a fly with a sledge-hammer!"
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  2. #22
    Senior Member Bullseye Shooter M@D-M@X's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talhoffer
    Quote Originally Posted by M@D-M@X
    Quote Originally Posted by GULL
    After the bottom rail is loosened, re torque the barrel screws in the order specified in the manual to 62 in lbs. Then re torque the bottom rail.
    Would that be the owner's manual?
    I can't find anywhere the sequence of barrel screws.
    Thx
    Max
    Will this help you.

    http://fnforum.net/scar-barrel-remov...on-t27832.html
    Excellent tech post.
    Thank you sir..
    "Fratres! What we do in life echoes in eternity...."

  3. #23
    Senior Member CAN KILL GOATS WITH HIS MIND Talhoffer's Avatar
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    "Sometimes it is entirely appropriate to kill a fly with a sledge-hammer!"
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  4. #24
    Senior Member Bullseye Shooter M@D-M@X's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talhoffer
    I didn't reset 100% but it is better than before.
    + Karma for you....

    Max
    "Fratres! What we do in life echoes in eternity...."

  5. #25
    Senior Member Mongo only pawn in game of life. SHOOT's Avatar
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    Wow, I now realize after having still bought mine at a fairly hefty price tag, that also may entitle me to become a qualified gunsmith (lol). Seriously, I guess that I'll find out if mine is next week. And is it predominately on black?
    You don't understand how serious this is . . . they killed my dog!

  6. #26
    Senior Member FROM MY COLD DEAD HANDS
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHOOT
    Wow, I now realize after having still bought mine at a fairly hefty price tag, that also may entitle me to become a qualified gunsmith (lol). Seriously, I guess that I'll find out if mine is next week. And is it predominately on black?
    You'll be fine SHOOT, lets see if yours has any issues first.

  7. #27
    Senior Member Mongo only pawn in game of life. SHOOT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by goretro77
    Quote Originally Posted by SHOOT
    Wow, I now realize after having still bought mine at a fairly hefty price tag, that also may entitle me to become a qualified gunsmith (lol). Seriously, I guess that I'll find out if mine is next week. And is it predominately on black?
    You'll be fine SHOOT, lets see if yours has any issues first.
    Thanks for the vote of confidence G.
    You don't understand how serious this is . . . they killed my dog!

  8. #28
    Senior Member KIRK'S AWAY TEAM (RED SHIRT)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil_Ed View Post
    Ok -

    When I first took the barrel off, no kidding or joking - this is exactily what it looked like:





    As you can see...that's jacked.

    Using a driver with a T25 head on it, I loosened the screw (4-5 turns or so, no need to unscrew it all the way if you don't want to) on the bottom REAR of the rail, and gently wiggled it up and down until it reached roughly this stage:



    At this stage it's still attached to the receiver extension but it is NOT going to influence the barrel when it's mounted; it'll move side-to-side as well as up-and-down. Not quite free-floating, but close enough for gov't work

    At this point, the easiest way to straighten it out - remount the barrel and torque it down, including the front points...and THEN tighten that rear rail screw back in tightly. That way it'll basically zero the rail for you, while leaving the barrel perfectly straight in the receiver.

    At least, that's what I did, and it worked for me. I mis-typed in my earlier post...I thought I had centered the front post before sighting it in; I had actually over-cranked it one click to the right! So, when I had to adjust the front back one click to the left...I was actually centering it!

    I didn't "torque" the rail screw to a specific in/lb or other setting; it seemed like it was just tightened until tight plus an extra crank, so that's what I did manually.

    That rail screw, btw, has what looks like some kind of a thread locker on it (as does the slot in the receiver extension where the rail fits into). It'll take a little bit of strength to pop the screw loose, then it'll come out. You won't harm it by unscrewing it. It's not staked or otherwise fastened; it's just in there with some loc-tite like substance.

    HTH!
    With the pictures and the instructions this should be very helpful.

  9. #29
    JTA
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    How important is the 62 pounds torque wrench? Seems to me there is a stoping point. I tightened mine back up with a regular screw driver but haven't shot it again yet.

    Should I not shoot it until I know I have applied exactly 62 pounds of torque to these bolts?

    Second, wouldn't this be considered a manafacturer defect? Seems to me there shouldn't be any need to have some special tools to fix a $3000 riffle to shoot straight. Has anyone contacted FN about this? If so what do they say?
    Last edited by JTA; 02-27-2012 at 06:18 PM.

  10. #30
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