Ok -
When I first took the barrel off, no kidding or joking - this is exactily what it looked like:
As you can see...that's jacked.
Using a driver with a T25 head on it, I loosened the screw (4-5 turns or so, no need to unscrew it all the way if you don't want to) on the bottom REAR of the rail, and gently wiggled it up and down until it reached roughly this stage:
At this stage it's still attached to the receiver extension but it is NOT going to influence the barrel when it's mounted; it'll move side-to-side as well as up-and-down. Not quite free-floating, but close enough for gov't work
At this point, the easiest way to straighten it out - remount the barrel and torque it down, including the front points...and THEN tighten that rear rail screw back in tightly. That way it'll basically zero the rail for you, while leaving the barrel perfectly straight in the receiver.
At least, that's what I did, and it worked for me. I mis-typed in my earlier post...I thought I had centered the front post before sighting it in; I had actually over-cranked it one click to the right! So, when I had to adjust the front back one click to the left...I was actually centering it!
I didn't "torque" the rail screw to a specific in/lb or other setting; it seemed like it was just tightened until tight plus an extra crank, so that's what I did manually.
That rail screw, btw, has what looks like some kind of a thread locker on it (as does the slot in the receiver extension where the rail fits into). It'll take a little bit of strength to pop the screw loose, then it'll come out.
You won't harm it by unscrewing it. It's not staked or otherwise fastened; it's just in there with some loc-tite like substance.
HTH!