Bit/drive needed to tighten the 2 screws on Scar 17s 308 mag floor plate

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  1. #1
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    Question Bit/drive needed to tighten the 2 screws on Scar 17s 308 mag floor plate

    Pls. help,I need to know what type of bit /drive is needed for the two screws on the mag floorplate for the scar 17s 308 magazine? Its the two screws that hold the "ranger" type rubber triangle thing to the mag floorplate. I tried to use a small phillips bit but its a really weak screw and I'm worried I might strip it. The screw was probably cross threaded or not tightened fully, so the polymer rubber base thing sticks out a bit and you can see the screw popping out. Its nothing major, it just bothers me (its a Monk thing... LOL)I'm thinking its a Pozidriv or Supadriv? not sure. I will try to take a better photo. List of screw drives - Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaTHANKS in advance!

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    Senior Member FORCE RECON WANTS HIM SONYtec's Avatar
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    Yup, better picture needed.
    11:00 P.M. EST Nov 4th, 2008, My nightmare came true...
    12:00 P.M. EST Jan 20th, 2009, screwing began...
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  3. #3
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    These screw are a no.1 Philips.
    All screws on mine are slightly tweaked like yours.
    Due to over tightening or worn bit slippage from the factory I would guess.

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    I concur...assembly lines use commercial bits (i.e. Apex) that are significantly harder that any bit you find in the box stores (DeWalt, Milwaukee, etc)....a hardened bit on an assembly line air tool + soft screw = partially stripped screw.

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    FYI...there's a guy on EBay selling Torx drive replacement screws for the floor plate.

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    It's just a Philips head screw, yea probably #1... It is the head of a PT screw (PT=plastic tap, or plastic thread) so the flights on the screw are thin and deep and cut into the sides of the hole in the plastic boss of the angle plate part.
    Because PT screws are easy to screw into a plastic boss hole, they are notoriously hard to keep perfectly straight when installing them- also they use a torque-limited driver to put them in at the factory. Usually your best bet is to screw them down tighter and see if they fit a little better with more torque. If not, then back them out and see if you can start them again straight...
    The heads will be tougher than the plastic so even if they look a little stripped already, they should hold up to a re-tap... If not, PT screws are easy to acquire at your local hardware store or find via scavenging from an old Coleco football game around the house.
    good luck!
    Zeebra

  7. #7
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    Ok guys I figured it out, the correct bit is a Pozidriv#1 bit (PZ1).

    I found a Stanley Multibit screwdriver set at Home Depot, and it was the only thing available with the Pozidriv bits.

    I took photos for anyone who has the same problem as I did. I just slowly backed out the bad screw a few turns, then also backed out the tight screw, adjusted the plate, then screwed in the "bad" screw, and tightened everything snug once they were aligned. Even though the head looked a bit stripped out, the pozidriv bit locked in, and was able to unscrew and tighten the bit. I hope anyone who has problems with the floor plate screw will read this and use the correct pozidriv #1 bit.

    Thanks for the suggestions!








  8. #8
    Senior Member FORCE RECON WANTS HIM SONYtec's Avatar
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    Good to see you fixed it.

    I would have replaced the screws with new ones.
    11:00 P.M. EST Nov 4th, 2008, My nightmare came true...
    12:00 P.M. EST Jan 20th, 2009, screwing began...
    10:00 P.M. EST SUNDAY Mar 21st 2010, healthcare SHOVED down our throats!

    Tuesday Nov 6th, 2012, We can CHANGE the president.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SONYtec View Post
    Good to see you fixed it.

    I would have replaced the screws with new ones.
    The Pozidriv screws look "bad" but they are actually not stripped. They look like stripped Phillips heads, but if you use the correct PZ#1 bit, it turns fine. If you tried to torque one of these screws with a phillips bit/driver, you would not get enough contact and they would spin out.

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