My SCAR 17s trigger earlier today was pretty terrible.
At the moment, I'm OK with it! It may not be as good as the $400 job posted here, but I'm quite pleased overall.
I took the lower off and spent quite some time playing around with how it all works.
The problem with the trigger is that AFTER the action is reset, the "grit" of moving the hammer (or whatever the real technical term is (I'm not a gun guy)) back, the trigger mechanism on my particular firearm was EXTREMELY gritty on that pull back.
I did further investigation and found that it is a really simple design that seems it is further complicated to keep it semi-auto. I didn't explore this much- not interested in the legal headaches, just an observation of design.
Taking a high power LED torch into the trigger group I noticed quite a bit of factory grease. "Well, now that is ODD", I thought to myself as I had done a fairly complete clean and lube just after purchase. To see any remaining grease was actually a bit of a surprise as I had thought I had done thorough cleaning.
Now, follows what I did;
YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK. I DON'T PERSONALLY SEE THE CONDITION OF YOUR FIREARM.
(Keep in mind that I HAD attempted to THROUGHLY clean this trigger group with Safariland Break Free ( I thought was recommended in the instructions for an initial cleaning.)
I took the lower into the bathroom, and placed it in the sink. Then I got a can of COMET (lemon fresh with bleach (scratch free)) and POURED it into the trigger group. I added a little HOT water, worked the hammer (whatever) and trigger many many many many times as the cleanser washed away.
Well, that was neat, and all and good. BUT the STICKY FN factory lube was still EVERYWHERE. At this point I was starting to get desperate, so the following is NOT scientific. I think took a risk and grabbed a can of PB BLASTER. Yea, this hit that FN Lube and took it out ...
But ... OH OH ... PB BLASTER isn't Politically Correct stuff on some things that are NOT metal ... Yea, see the problem ... the MAJORITY of the lower is not metal.
QUICK! Grab the DAWN dish-washing soap, and create a half gallon of boiling water (via microwave and stove top at the same time).
I hit the lower again with the Comet Cleanser, flushing with hot water from the sink facet.
I doused again in the Dawn heavy sink bowl.
I think poured over 1/2 gallon of boiling water over the entire lower.
I then used a hair dryer to COMPLETELY dry the entire lower.
Then I added the last final ingredient!
I sprayed "Tri-Flow into EVERY part and sprayed and sprayed and sprayed EVERYWHERE I thought there was a moving part moving against another part.
I then took several heavy duty paper towels and kept wiping down the extra EXCESS lubricant.
Trigger is 1000 times better. No, it is not smooth as butter, but it is fairly close, and it is not in any way TERRIBLE like it was.
I can feel the small pre-pull SIGNIFICANTLY better. The final pull is very light extra pressure and EXTREMELY crisp.
In my opinion, based on my experience to the moment, the factory metal work was fairly decent on the trigger group. Where FN went weird was their strange thick heavy lube on the group.
In my opinion, you get that factory lube, and the crud it is holding, and the trigger will be night and day for the better.
I only have my own firearm to tinker with. I in no way changed the factory parts (only cleaned and lubed them).
DO THE ABOVE AT YOUR OWN RISK. You are an adult, figure out whether or not you have the problem I have, and seek professional advice if you do not have the skill set to make the determination on your own abilities.
I am EXCITED to take my own SCAR 17s back to the range!!! This is going to be good!!!