Post By Sprig
SCAR 17S DIY Trigger Job --- less then $20 and 20 mins.
My SCAR 17s trigger earlier today was pretty terrible.
At the moment, I'm OK with it! It may not be as good as the $400 job posted here, but I'm quite pleased overall.
I took the lower off and spent quite some time playing around with how it all works.
The problem with the trigger is that AFTER the action is reset, the "grit" of moving the hammer (or whatever the real technical term is (I'm not a gun guy)) back, the trigger mechanism on my particular firearm was EXTREMELY gritty on that pull back.
I did further investigation and found that it is a really simple design that seems it is further complicated to keep it semi-auto. I didn't explore this much- not interested in the legal headaches, just an observation of design.
Taking a high power LED torch into the trigger group I noticed quite a bit of factory grease. "Well, now that is ODD", I thought to myself as I had done a fairly complete clean and lube just after purchase. To see any remaining grease was actually a bit of a surprise as I had thought I had done thorough cleaning.
Now, follows what I did;
YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK. I DON'T PERSONALLY SEE THE CONDITION OF YOUR FIREARM.
(Keep in mind that I HAD attempted to THROUGHLY clean this trigger group with Safariland Break Free ( I thought was recommended in the instructions for an initial cleaning.)
I took the lower into the bathroom, and placed it in the sink. Then I got a can of COMET (lemon fresh with bleach (scratch free)) and POURED it into the trigger group. I added a little HOT water, worked the hammer (whatever) and trigger many many many many times as the cleanser washed away.
Well, that was neat, and all and good. BUT the STICKY FN factory lube was still EVERYWHERE. At this point I was starting to get desperate, so the following is NOT scientific. I think took a risk and grabbed a can of PB BLASTER. Yea, this hit that FN Lube and took it out ...
But ... OH OH ... PB BLASTER isn't Politically Correct stuff on some things that are NOT metal ... Yea, see the problem ... the MAJORITY of the lower is not metal.
QUICK! Grab the DAWN dish-washing soap, and create a half gallon of boiling water (via microwave and stove top at the same time).
I hit the lower again with the Comet Cleanser, flushing with hot water from the sink facet.
I doused again in the Dawn heavy sink bowl.
I think poured over 1/2 gallon of boiling water over the entire lower.
I then used a hair dryer to COMPLETELY dry the entire lower.
Then I added the last final ingredient!
I sprayed "Tri-Flow into EVERY part and sprayed and sprayed and sprayed EVERYWHERE I thought there was a moving part moving against another part.
I then took several heavy duty paper towels and kept wiping down the extra EXCESS lubricant.
Trigger is 1000 times better. No, it is not smooth as butter, but it is fairly close, and it is not in any way TERRIBLE like it was.
I can feel the small pre-pull SIGNIFICANTLY better. The final pull is very light extra pressure and EXTREMELY crisp.
In my opinion, based on my experience to the moment, the factory metal work was fairly decent on the trigger group. Where FN went weird was their strange thick heavy lube on the group.
In my opinion, you get that factory lube, and the crud it is holding, and the trigger will be night and day for the better.
I only have my own firearm to tinker with. I in no way changed the factory parts (only cleaned and lubed them).
DO THE ABOVE AT YOUR OWN RISK. You are an adult, figure out whether or not you have the problem I have, and seek professional advice if you do not have the skill set to make the determination on your own abilities.
I am EXCITED to take my own SCAR 17s back to the range!!! This is going to be good!!!
You know, you could have just bought Mpro7 Gun cleaner, that stuff works wonders. You dont need to rinse it off or anything, just wipe off excess and let it dry, then lube. I used it to clean my trigger group's factory grease and I've never had any issues with a gritty trigger pull, then again, maybe I was lucky. I also used Mpro7 Gun oil LPX to lube. I saw the how to clean video on youtube when I was waiting for my 17s, so I took a chance and bought Mpro7 products. I'm super happy I did. You should give it a shot, the Gun Cleaner and LPX oil are fantastic.
AH......brings back memories cleaing our M240s/M4s....hot water - simple green - dry solvent
LOL...that Simple Green is the best! I've not used it on firearms, but pick up a jug of it quite often for all my other messy shop projects.
Originally Posted by bayonet14
...I think I'll just stick to dry fire to improve my trigger. It's already helped a bunch.
Your attempt to simply dry fire does NOT properly address the issue of the pre-pull on the trigger mechanism. You are adding many other cycles of operation on the firearm that otherwise are fine.
Originally Posted by 1911-a1
Unless others SCARS are different, the pre-pull on my on my SCAR trigger brings the hammer further back on the pre-pull of the trigger.
I suppose that the expensive trigger mods just keeps the hammer full back ... that would make the pre-pull effortless ... but that might not be that great of idea with combat troops wearing glovesl; the crisp trigger won't be felt while wearing gloves.
Anyways, the point of my post was that doing an extra extreme, then ANOTHER extra EXTRA EXTRA extreme extreme, cleaning of the trigger mechanism was SIGNIFICANT to the function of the trigger on my SCAR.
I might do some extra work to the trigger in the future. But, I spent less then $20 in already purchased bottles of chemicals and I spent about 15 minutes total on the effort...and it was EASY!
I guess in simple terms, all I did was REALLY CLEAN the trigger group of the factory muck, and I used a modern lubricant to make it ALL as slick as possible.
This was a pretty cheap and simple way to make the trigger MUCH MUCH MUCH better.
But, I hope this post helps someone.
Last edited by Sprig; 11-08-2012 at 06:15 PM.
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