FNAR Newby

[jhp1]

Greetings to all,
I just picked up a FNAR 20 Heavy as a Christmas present to myself. After roaming all over the internet reading alot of articles about the care and cleaning of FNARs, I found this site and figured this was the best place to ask questions concerning all things FNAR.
My first questions concern initial cleaning prior to firing and barrel break in procedures for this rifle. Unlike most of you guys my experience with firearms only covers the last 3 years not counting my Army tour form 74-76. Currently I have a SIG P220 and a Mossberg 590 A1 SPX, both of which I love. This FNAR is my first rifle.
I've read the manual and I'm looking for any advice or suggestions about how far to take down this weapon for the intial cleaning and the best solvent to use [Hoppes #9, EEZOX]? Also does anyone use jags in addition to or instead of bore brushes for cleaning the barrel?
Additionally I'm also really confused about the necessity of the barrel break in procedure. Most of the break in procedures I've found are different. Then some articles say that barrel break in is totally unnecessary. I'm confused and looking for some help and direction from those more experienced than myself and would be grateful for any assistance you can provide for the proper care of this weapon.

Thanks In Advance
JHP1

[Sin City Shooter]

IMHO there is no need for barrel break in. However, on a new gun you get a tendency to shave brass and copper off the rounds until all the sharp edges wear off. So with that being said. I shoot a new gun once and run a boresnake down the barrel after each of the first 5 rounds, then a quick spray of brake clean(letting it fully dry before reshooting) just to get the crap out of the chamber the boresnake misses. I shoot and clean normally after those first few rounds.

[djv38]

It's also chrome lined and chrome lined barrels do not need to be broken in.

If the barrel was unlined, I would break in the barrel and there are several methods favored by various shooters, but the FNAR is chrome lined, so no need. Clean, lube the friction points and shoot it

[jhp1]

Sin City Shooter, djv38, Thanks for responding so quickly and clearing up the break in issue.
About the initial takedown and cleaning, I've been reading about a synththetic cleaner called EEZOX. Have any of you heard of it before? Other than that I'm thinking Hoppes, CLP, etc. I've taken down and cleaned my P220 and 590A1 but from the video I viewed http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLuznnkmy2k
I have to admit I'm a bit apprehensive about the FNAR takedown.
Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Again,

jhp1

[Sin City Shooter]

Sin City Shooter, djv38, Thanks for responding so quickly and clearing up the break in issue.
About the initial takedown and cleaning, I've been reading about a synththetic cleaner called EEZOX. Have any of you heard of it before? Other than that I'm thinking Hoppes, CLP, etc. I've taken down and cleaned my P220 and 590A1 but from the video I viewed http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLuznnkmy2k
I have to admit I'm a bit apprehensive about the FNAR takedown.
Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Again,

jhp1

They only suck to take apart the first few times you do it, after that it becomes second nature. The beauty of the BarII is that you don't need to remove the bolt that often for cleaning. A nylon or copper brush and hoppes works good. Depending on how bad the barrel gets copper fouled, I use barnes cr10 or and I've just tried the S&W bore scrubber(not sure if I like it or not yet), shooters choice. Now for general cleaning, Hoppes is my goto. Clp works ok but I don't care for it, seems messy.

[jhp1]

Thanks again Sin City Shooter. Yeah I believe you are right, like almost anything else, practice makes perfect. I plan on going slow and careful the first few times. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thanks,

jhp1

[Sin City Shooter]

If you post your location maybe we have someone here on the board that could help you out.

I'll give you a clue. When you put the bolt back in, you will have to extend it a bit to get it down close to the rails, then collapse it to actually drop it all the way in and for gods sake do not force the bolt in, it will stick and is a pain in the ass to get it to come loose again(don't ask me how I know). I might do a video of just the bolt removal and install by itself in close detail.

Mine is going to need a rebarrel soon, yes I shoot it that much. I'm going to see if Bartlein barrels will make me a custom 26" varmint. I'm also in contact with McMillan stocks to see if they will make me a custom A5 or A3 stock that will float the barrel but I have not heard back from them yet. Looks like about $1300 will get the furniture.

[jhp1]

Sure thing I'm located in Poughkeepsie, New York ... That is about 85 miles north of New York City.
I've read about the benefit of free floating barrels with regard to resonance and accuracy. As you can probably tell I'm not quite there yet but it is good to have good people around that I can talk to along the way.

Thanks,

jhp1