ABCs of Reloading, beginners guide to get started

[MP_OHIO]

Ok, I have wanted to start a sticky on this for a while. I and others on here have been wanting to get started on this for some time. I am by no means an expert let alone a novice, so I need The EXPERTS help on this

Here is a begining format I would like to start with(this is fluid and will probably change as you guys chime in and give me your opinion. I am open to suggestions.


I.) Beginners Getting started, what to get.(kit or seperates?)

1.)Equipment:
A.) presses
a. Single:
b. Proggressive

B.) dyes
C.) powder
D.) scales
E.) Primers
F.)
G.)


2.) Process from start to finish of reloading
cleaning, measuring, ect...

http://www.reloadbench.com/gloss/guide.html


3.) Resources for beginners

http://www.reviewsofthings.com/guns/...mmunition.html



4.) Caliber loads and bullets (no Oddballs for now)
A. 5.7
B. 223 / 5.56
C. 308
D. 45
E. 44 mag
F.

5.) Process from start to finish of reloading
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.


6.) Favorite equipment, powders, primers and such
7.) Stuff to Avoid
8.) Resources: Links, books and articles


I would like to keep this on topic, so any posts off topic will be deleted

[MP_OHIO]

I found this guide to help get started with.


http://www.reloadbench.com/gloss/guide.html


1. Clean and check:
Using a soft cloth, wipe each case clean to prevent dirt from scratching the case and resizing die. Inspect the case for anything that would keep it from being safety reloaded, such as split case mouths, case head separations, excessive bulges and other case defects. Any case found to be defective should be crushed with a pair of pliers and thrown away.
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2. Lubricate the cases (part 1):
Because of the force involved, you'll need to lubricate the cases before they go into a sizer die. Spread some lube on the pad and lubricate the body of the case. If you're using a carbide sizer die for reloading straight-wall pistol cases, you can eliminate this step.
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3. Lubricate the cases (part 2):
Clean dirt and powder residue from inside case necks and simultaneously add a light coating of case lube with a case neck brush. This will reduce resizing effort and prevent excess working of the brass. Roll the brush across the lube pad after every three or four cases for just the right amount.
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4. Install the shell holder:
Snap a shell holder into the press ram with a slight twisting motion. The shell holder will securely grip the head of the cartridge case. Check the pistol shell holder reference chart or the rifle shell holder reference chart to determine which shell holder to use for a particular cartridge.
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5. Install the Sizer Die:
Thread the sizer die into the press until the die touches the shell holder when the ram is at the top of the press stroke. Raise the press handle and turn the die down another one eight to one-quarter of a turn and set the large lock ring. If you're using a carbide sizer die, leave a 1/16" gap between the bottom of the die and the shell holder.
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6. Insert the case:
With the press handle in the up position, slide a case into the shell holder.
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7. Resize the case:
Now, gently but firmly lower the press handle all the way to the bottom and run the case all the way into the sizer die. This will resize the case to is original dimensions and knock the fired primer out the bottom of the case. Next, raise the press handle. This will lower the case and expand the case mouth (on bottle-neck cartridges), correctly setting the case neck diameter to hold the bullet tighter.
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8. Trim the Case:
After several firings, cases sometimes stretch and become longer than the specified maximum length. These cases must be trimmed to allow for proper chambering and for safety reasons. The trimmer works like a small lathe and can be used to trim most cases up through 45 caliber.
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9. Chamfer and Deburr:
Cases that have been trimmed need to also be chamfered and deburred. This will remove any burrs left on the case after trimming and will allow a new bullet to be easily seated into the case. Insert the pointed end of the Deburring Tool into the case to remove burrs and chamfer the case mouth. Fit the other end over the case mouth to remove exterior burrs.




10. Expand the case mouth:
This is a separate step that is required for reloading straight-wall cases. Because of their design, straight-wall cases need to be expanded in a separate expander die. install the expander die in the press, place a sized case in the shell holder and run it into the die. The expander plug should be adjusted so the case mouth is belled or flared just enough to accept the new bullet.
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11. Prime the case (part 1):
Use the Primer Tray-2 for fast, easy primer handing. To use, first scatter primers onto the grooved surface of the tray. Then, shake the tray horizontally until all the primer are positioned anvil side up.
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12. Prime the case (part 2):
Place a fresh primer, anvil side up, into the cup of the primer arm and insert a case into the shell holder.
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13. Prime the Case (part 3):
Lower the handle and push the primer arm all the way into the slot in the shell holder ram.
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14. Prime the Case (part 4):
Now, gently and slowly raise the press handle. As the case is drawn out of the die it will be lowered onto the fresh primer which will be seated into the primer pocket. Inspect the primer to make sure it is properly seated. In order to gain optimum primer sensitivity, the primer must be seated firm firmly to the bottom of the primer pocket.
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15. Powder Charging (part 1):
Consult your reloading manual to learn what kind of powder and exactly how much is recommended to reload your cartridge. Then weigh the recommended charge on your scale.
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16. Powder Charging (part 2):
After accurately weighting the powder charge, pour it into the case through a powder funnel.
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17. Powder Charging (part 3):
Another way to measure powder is to use a powder measure. It will dispense a precise, uniform charge with each crank of the handle, eliminating the need to weight every charge on a scale. Fill the measure with powder and throw several charges to establish flow and settle the powder in the hopper. Return this powder to the hopper. Use your reloading scale to adjust the powder measure. Weigh every charge until several consecutively thrown charges each show the desired weight. Recheck the weight about every ten cases.
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18. Bullet Seating (part 1):
Having primed and charged the case, you're ready for the next step - seating the bullet. (These next few steps are, again, mostly for bottleneck cartridges. The steps are slightly different for straight-wall cases) Thread the seater die a few turns into the press. Put a case in the shell holder and lower the press handle, running the ram with the case to the top of the press stroke. Turn the die body down until it stops. The crimp shoulder in the die is now pressing against the top of the case mouth. Now, while looking at the headstamp on top of the die, back the die out one complete turn. This raises the crimp shoulder above the case mouth. Secure the die in position with the die lock ring.
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19. Bullet Seating (part 2):
Next, unscrew the seater plug enough to keep the bullet from being seated too deep.
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20. Bullet Seating (part 3):
With the handle in the up position, insert a properly, primed and charged case into the shell holder.
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21.Bullet Seating (part 4):
Take a bullet and hold it over the case mouth with one hand while you lower the press handle with the other, easing the case and bullet up into the die. After raising the handle, note the seating depth of the loaded round.
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22. Bullet Seating (part 5):
If the bullet needs to be seated deeper into the case, run the seater plug down. Run the loaded round back up into the die, raise the press handle and check the seating depth again. It may take another adjustment or two to get the proper and final bullet seating depth. Once proper seating depth is achieved, tighten the small seater plug lock ring.




23. That's It:
Your first reloaded cartridge is ready to be fired. Of course, this shows only one case going through all the reloading steps. When actually reloading, you'd take a batch of cases through each operation before moving on the next step.

[High Pockets]

Suggest reading: The ABC's Of Reloading: The Definitive Guide …
by Bill Chevalier

It is going to be very difficult to provide the information you seek.

The book above is a good primer, and it is over 200 pages long.

I don't think we can break the information down to post on-line in an abbreviated form and still maintain the safety levels needed for the reloading regimen.

I am sure many people will be able to come up with equipment lists, I know I can think of a bit right off-hand.

Reloading Press - Progressive - I use Dillon
Owners manual
correct size dies - (usually comes with purchase of press)
Powder Scale - I use RCBS
powder funnel
flipper tray
bullet puller - for mistakes
micrometer calipers - to measure OAL and various case dimensions.
a good book as mentioned above.
Reloading manuals such as Lyman #4* - I forget the version #
A very sturdy workbench
A logbook for load information

Lastly,

Powder
Primers
Brass

oh yeah, Bullets

[MP_OHIO]

Thanks for the reply,

My purpose is to help noobs get a start. It is a little overwhelming starting out.




SideNote: primers and such are also going up May 1st!!

http://www.natchezss.com/customerSer...PriceIncreases

Due to these historic increases we are forced to raise pricing as follows:
Centerfire Handgun and Rifle 7-15%
Promotional Rimfire 10-15%
Standard Rimfire 5-10%
Shotshell 5-10%
Primers 10%