scar trigger job

[CountryBoy]

nice write up scott. I second not doing the trigger work with no prior experience or help from a gunsmith/machinist friend.

I do find it odd you found it so difficult to take apart the lower. I wouldnt say its hard but there are some tricks you can do to make it easier. I think the biggest bear is that hammer spring assembly. A good dental pic or similar does the trick nicely

Hey CountryBoy,
LOL Yeah, I had no guide at all and it wasn't really THAT hard, but it was designed almost too cleverly. I wanted to do it so I knew how and I like trying to figure stuff out.

BTW Thanks for all you guys add to this forum.

Cheers--

I found an easier way to install that spring for the hammer spring. Put the notch on the hammer out of the receiver and then put it in. that way you dont need something to compress the spring and slide it over the pinned hammer.

[ScottsBad]

I found an easier way to install that spring for the hammer spring. Put the notch on the hammer out of the receiver and then put it in. that way you dont need something to compress the spring and slide it over the pinned hammer.

Thanks, good call. I'll try that out. BTW. I don't know if anyone has tried this, but there is a product called "case hard" or something like that. It allows you to put a very hard coating on a certain metal surfaces. I've not looked for the product yet, but I heard about it from my FFL.

I was thinking of trying it out on an old beater AR trigger that I've nearly thrown away a few times to see if in can be used on a trigger. I understand that the piece must be heated to a very very high temp and then dipped in this stuff and then cooled in water.

The questions are: Will it deform the trigger to use this process? And will the surface be smooth after application? My FFL says the surface is very smooth, but he's never tried it on a trigger.

Anyway, just food for thought.

Cheers--

[CountryBoy]

I found an easier way to install that spring for the hammer spring. Put the notch on the hammer out of the receiver and then put it in. that way you dont need something to compress the spring and slide it over the pinned hammer.

Thanks, good call. I'll try that out. BTW. I don't know if anyone has tried this, but there is a product called "case hard" or something like that. It allows you to put a very hard coating on a certain metal surfaces. I've not looked for the product yet, but I heard about it from my FFL.

I was thinking of trying it out on an old beater AR trigger that I've nearly thrown away a few times to see if in can be used on a trigger. I understand that the piece must be heated to a very very high temp and then dipped in this stuff and then cooled in water.

The questions are: Will it deform the trigger to use this process? And will the surface be smooth after application? My FFL says the surface is very smooth, but he's never tried it on a trigger.

Anyway, just food for thought.

Cheers--

ive heard of it but I dont understand why you would want to put it on a trigger. Most are heat treated or coated in some way to prevent wear and give strength. Sear engagement points are very slick and are usually ground. Coating over them would be pointless and no it would not be as smooth as you would want your trigger to be. If you did coat it i would recommend polishing the sear points back down to bare metal

Sear engagement points are very slick and are usually ground.

definitely not the case on my SCAR-17. It looked like it came straight out of a casting mold. The only additional machine work on it was inside the trigger to adjust the disconnector engagement.

I've gotta say, this rifle had the worst factory trigger of any gun, and for a rifle over $2500?

Anyway, I screwed around with mine. Dropped it from 8-3/4 pounds to 7.5#. There was some significant positive rake that I changed to the correct neutral rake, and I narrowed the width of the engagment surface. Dropped the height to .040.

I have some other ideas but until I have a spare set I'm being really conservative. The .090 engagement height is ridiculous. Most battle rifles are in the .040 range and I've done hundreds of trigger jobs on fals and hks using .025 as a minimum.

I took this pic to show the fixture, but if you look close at the trigger under the stone, you can see how rough the factory surface is.

[danrutenberg]

I had a trigger job done bythe best local gunsmith around me for my scar 17. My trigger felt like a gritty 2 or even 3 stage trigger with the lumps before it got to engagement point. It was also very heavy and honestly was not fun to shoot it was so bad and I was not planning on a trigger job and not the type to just modify just because it can be done. The smith did some work on the sears and a lot of polishing charged a bit over $100. Now there is ZERO creep breaks like glass at 6lbs only "complaint" I have and may take it back to see if it can be fixed is after you pull the trigger if you keep the trigger pulled back and not release it then charge it simulating a round cycled if you release the trigger at that point there is a small click feeling that is somewhat annoying but I have not done any test fire to see if I would even notice that. I can't remeber if the trigger did that before the trigger job? Can anyone check this for me if you understand what I'm saying? Dry fire and keep the trigger fully depressed as much as possible charge the handle then slowly let the trigger out does it make a click feeling/sound??

[Talhoffer]

danrutenberg,

Are you talking about the trigger reset,
Pull trigger (dry fire ) gun goes click
Pull charging handle back and let handle go forward with trigger depressed
Let trigger come forward slowly and hear/feel click
If that is what and when you are asking about then I would say yes trigger is just resetting.

[danrutenberg]

Yeah that's what I'm talking about but I thought it automatically reset by cycling the action so that extra click when letting the trigger go was already there. I guess I never noticed it or it feasts harder. I love the trigger job though. Breaks sooo clean took like 2lbs of pull off just the simple fact of it being smooth and he didn't mess with any springs so it wont have any issues with mil spec primers. Or atleast none it would have before the trigger job. Anybody who got a reallllly crappy trigger like mine I say if you know a good smith get everything polished and the sears fixed up its well worth $100. When the SSR comes out imma just buy the whole thing. That's the only reason I got the 17 was settling for next closest thing and can never have too many rifles. But ya that reset click is normal its a pretty loud click i can feel it in the grip when it resets its not a soft or quiet reengagement by any means then I don't think it will bother me shooting tho